“On the Level”

Browse Articles by Mark Hughes/Production Manager and his Team of highly skilled managers and craftsmen.

FAQ’s about Finishing Out Your Basement (Part 2: Windows and How Much Does it Cost?)

A couple weeks ago I wrote about some topics that always come up when we’re talking about remodeling or finishing out a basement.  Our Architect, Isaac talked about all kinds of uses for these unused areas of your home in a post that was really interesting.  Click here to check that out, then read on here for the last two questions we often get and some ways to justify it or rule it out in your own home.  (See my previous post below for permitting questions and what to do about damp and wet basements.)

1. What windows are required in the basement?  All bedrooms require egress to the outside in case of a fire.  The egress has to be big enough, not only to get out, but for a fully equipped firefighter to get in.  There are very specific codes on window opening sizes so you should have your Designer check that out…and get a permit.  The good news is that concrete can be cut, drains are easily installed and window wells will give you the room for just about any size window you need.  It is surprisingly easy to create openings for window so you can flood that basement with natural light.  (See my previous post for the other kind of flooded basements.)
2. How much does it cost to finish out my basement?  Let me put it this way, both a ’65 VW Bug and a 2010 Porsche Boxter were made in Germany, have 4 wheels, the engine is in the back and will get you from here to there.  So how much per square foot are they?  The least expensive basement remodel would be to add a little drywall, paint and some flooring.  As soon as you start adding cabinets, plumbing, specialty equipment and systems you’re in a whole different league.  But adding some lighting, framing some new rooms, and even adding a window or two is really affordable.  If a Remodeler quotes you a square footage price without specifications, you should run.  And don’t assume that getting multiple bids will help you.  Unless you have precise plans and specifications, all your bidders will be bidding different things.  Some will do it right and provide you with subcontractor pricing and a detailed list of allowances, while others will tell you they have everything “in there.”  Then you come to find out that the limestone shower walls you told him about and forgot to write down, are actually 4×4 white ceramic tile installed by his laborer.  But they can write a change order for you no problem.  A lot of people say that “The low bid just guessed, the high bid is just too expensive so the bid in the middle must be just right”.  That reasoning may have worked for Goldilocks but that might also mean you just selected the contractor that didn’t get one subcontractor bid or do one quantity take off.  He just happened to get lucky in being in the middle.  The low bidder probably is a one or two man show and does most of the work himself.  He may do a great job until you compare his tile setting with a seasoned pro who does that every day, and if you ask for a lien release, he’ll stop work to spend half a day calling around to get it.  The Remodeler you choose should be one who has systems in place to take care of whatever you need, will ask a lot of questions and be able to give you what you asked for, letting you know what cost implications are immediately.  This isn’t always expensive either.  Efficiency makes a good contractor competitive but provides you with everything you dreamed of, communicates and provides documentation timely and keeps you in the loop on the multiple decisions that need to be made and how they affect the schedule…yes I said schedule.  Make sure there is a schedule and that they’re following it.

If you have any more questions you’d like me to look into about remodeling that basement, just email me at mark@gaspars.com or leave a comment.  Gaspar’s has competitive pricing, aggressive schedules, great in-house design and unmatched communication and professionalism.  Just ask and we’ll guide you through it.

FAQ’s about Finishing Out Your Basement (Part 1: Permits and Dampness)

In a recent post Gaspar’s Architect Isaac Spinell talked about all the different ways you could transform that dingy, damp basement into all kinds of cool spaces.  He had ideas for everyone in your family from the “Man Cave” to sophisticated media rooms to that perfect Child haven to spark imagination and creativity.  That post sparked a flurry of ideas and questions about different uses for basements, what to look for before starting, and what kind of things can spoil your best laid plans. 

This year Gaspar’s Construction and Gaspar’s Handyman are doing a lot of improvements in basements from a little fix of a laundry room to full on lift the house and rebuild the foundation.  With budgets being tightened, the basement remodel is resurging as an affordable way to get the most out of every square foot of your home.  Check out Isaac’s post for ideas and look over these frequently asked questions for what to prepare for.  I’ll continue this list in two weeks with questions on windows required and the cost to remodel that basement.

1. Do we need permits?  Short answer is always “yes.”  A reputable Remodeler permits every project that they can.  Sometimes only subcontractor permits are required, like for electrical and plumbing.  If you’re just putting in a new Marmoleum floor and a couple cabinets into a laundry room, you probably won’t need a permit.  If you add lighting or move the plumbing for the washer, you will need those specialty permits.  If you build walls, fur out the foundation and insulate or open a walkway with a beam, you’ll need that building permit too.  DO NOT be afraid of permitting.  Most basement permits can be issued over the counter with a good plan by someone who knows what they’re doing.  And the building department will tell you if you don’t need a permit.
   

   Insulation, Vapor Barrier, Reinforcing and Radiant Heat Tubes, Ready for Concrete

2. My floor seems damp and it smells musty down here.  What do I do?  It is pretty easy to tell if your basement floor is damp. If the concrete is dark, there is moisture in it.  Professionals have high quality moisture meters to tell you how much moisture is in it.  You do not want to install flooring or finishes over floors with too much moisture.  The vintage homes here in Seattle are starting to push the century mark.  Most concrete floors are typically thin, very poor in strength, and almost always out of level.  If your slab is always damp, it is best to brace your foundation and remove it.  Install interior perimeter drains, free draining gravel, rigid foam insulation, vapor barrier, then a good 3-1/2” reinforced concrete slab.  Connecting your interior drains to a good storm drain is critical for this method to work.  A new concrete floor also opens up your potential for a radiant heating and all kinds of concrete staining and sealing processes. 
3. My basement only gets wet when it rains really hard, ever few years.  What is causing this?  If your floor is level and dry, you are one of the lucky ones.  If your basement only gets wet on rare occasions when we get those 100 year rains (every other year in Seattle) then you probably have an easier fix related to drainage on the outside.  It might mean you just need to re-do your downspout and foundation drains.  Of course there are minimal and extreme variations on this theme too.  The best is to excavate the entire foundation, clean and waterproof the foundation walls, install new separate downspout and footing drains in gravel and filter fabric, and backfill with free draining soil.  A good majority of wet basements flood only because a downspout drain is clogged.
   

   Once the new Concrete is poured, you'll have a new warm and dry floor.

Long story short.  Hiring a reputable Design / Build Remodeler with qualified interior designers and architects is critical.  They should be capable of obtaining any engineering and permitting required.  If you use an independent Interior Designer or Architect, make sure you select your contractor to help in the value engineering process at the same time.  Having a team including a Design Pro, a qualified Remodeler, and a decisive Homeowner makes the process enjoyable and satisfying and Gaspar’s Construction is capable of any basement remodel you can dream of.  Check back soon for the second part of these FAQ’s where I’ll discuss basement windows and the cost of remodeling your basement.

Inspiration for writing this blog post goes to Alden Smith and his article titled “Basement Remodeling FAQ’s” on doityourself.com. 

GASPAR’S is now Lead Certified (3/23/10)

Are you ready for more regulations on your job sites and projects?  As of April 22nd, we are all required to perform lead testing and know how to protect ourselves and our customers from the dangers of lead and lead poisoning.  After going through the day long training and learning about the people who have had life long disabilities because of avoidable lead poisoning, I have a new perspective on how important this is.

The good news is that Remodelers like us at Gaspar’s, already do a good job with dust containment and surface protection as a service to our customers.  With a little more care and the right documentation, you can safely complete most simple remodeling tasks that may have lead paint in the area you’re working on.  If you’re gutting your home’s plaster (painted with lead paint) on lathe, I recommend you call in the experts to avoid spreading lead dust throughout your home.  One graham of lead contaminates a very large area.  Imagine if a sugar packet got sucked into your furnace return air and was distributed throughout your home.  That’s all it takes to completely contaminate the entire home and that tiny amount of lead dust is extremely dangerous to your health.

Gaspar’s Project Managers, Project Leads and Service Handyman Technicians have all been certified for working with lead painted items and areas.  Homes built before 1978 have a high probability that they have lead paint or lead coatings in them.  Test sticks sold at safety supply or hardware stores give us a quick snapshot of what areas need to be contained during work.  Once lead paint is identified in the area to be worked on, there are new procedures that must take place.  The production team at Gaspar’s has developed an efficient and low cost procedure including:

1. Informing customers of potential lead based paint dangers with the “Renovate Right” handout from the Environmental Protection Agency.
2. Proper testing of surfaces including old painted surfaces under newer paint.
3. Containment of the area inside the home with plastic sheeting and doors with approved signage.
4. No sanding, scraping or paint strippers are allowed.  Containment is not Abatement!
5. Wear hazard suits and booties, hats, and eye protection.  Have respirators that have been test fit and medically approved with the proper filters.
6. Use only a Hepa-filter vacuum for clean up inside the contained area.
7. Remove protective gear before leaving the area.  (Many children have been poisoned from dust brought into the family car from the clothing of their parent working on a site with lead filled dust.)
8. Fold up and bag all plastic sheeting and lead coated materials.  Tape the openings and dispose of properly.  It is okay to put lead materials in the trash if they are bagged properly.
9. Clean up with tack cloths, wet wipes and a Hepa-vac and test cleaned areas

Children under 6 and pregnant women are the most susceptible for poisoning and if either reside in or visit the home, containment and clean up are required.  Work on interior areas over 6 square feet or outside areas over 20 square feet are required to be contained.  Containment is also required on any project replacing a door or window with lead paint on it.  The key question to ask, “Does the item or project I’m working on contain any components with lead paint that I will be disturbing?”  If not, you’re good to go as usual.  If it does, a few extra precautions will ensure that you and your customers stay healthy.

If you have a project or questions about the new requirement or your safety, call or email Mark at Gaspar’s or reply to this blog post and I’ll do my best to steer you in the right direction.

For more information check out the EPA’s complete requirements for working with lead materials at http://epa.gov/lead/.

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IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS 1/26/2010

People often ask me if Gaspar’s only does “high end” remodels.  I struggle with the answer to that because many of us have worked on those secret mega-mansions that you can’t even tell anyone the name of the project, or you’re not allowed to take any pictures.  We’ve seen the detail that goes into those places and know how to pull them off, how long they take and how much they cost.  But how do you take a project that most of us can afford and make it really stand out?  It’s all in the details.

So many of the projects that we work on are in those great old neighborhoods like Capitol Hill, Queen Anne, Madison Park, Montlake, and Admiral.  The guys who built most of these homes really had the time (and lumber) to put together some pretty amazing details.  When working on one of these homes, it is essential to preserve and replicate these details.  In these times of extremely tight budgets, conditions hidden under the old plaster, under rotting window sills and out of level floors often out-prioritize the details and finish work.  So the designer and remodeler have to be pretty creative to make it happen.

Matching existing details and choosing authentic materials can make a project look like it’s been there forever.  The modern home has so many new standard features that our grandparents did not even dream of 90 years ago.  A great example is aluminum gutters.  We know we have to have gutters and aluminum continuous gutters are something that we need and can afford, but when installing them, think about the details.  Wrap the gutters around the roof returns and use round downspouts on a stand off bracket.

On two of our current projects, the Gaspar’s craftsmen have duplicated some pretty simple forms in an outstanding way to create a seamless addition.  One project replicated the rafter ends by tracing an old one on the new material.  It took them only a half day to cut them out.  Finishing it off with bead board eave sheathing was the final touch in making the new dormer fit right in with the original construction.  On another Tudor style home, we added a new dormer for an enlarged stairway.  Rather than just “popping up” the roof, we took a couple extra days to fabricate matching curved rafters from layers of ¾” plywood.  The look is simple but dramatic.

Don’t have the money to do everything?  That’s okay.  I always suggest foregoing interior frills and gadgets that you can buy later in favor of the things that will be with your home forever.  And when you build these details, build them in a way that they’ll last forever.  Don’t skimp on the flashing (remember that the builders from a century ago did not have caulking!)  Back prime all the back sides and end cuts of your exterior boards and trim.  On the inside, match the millwork; don’t substitute for MDF that you get off the rack at the home center.  A good millwork company will match the mouldings and cost you no more than $250 extra.  Yes this all adds up but it is less than you think and the value of your home will continue to increase as your neighbor’s boxy addition is being remodeled again in 10 years.  Spending a boat load of money is not how you build “high end”.  Matching the details and using the right products is.

 

WHAT A FOUNDATION! 11/5/09

Check out Gaspar’s latest foundation installed on this major remodel on Capitol Hill.  We’ve lifted the home, and the new foundation is in place.  Our foundation subcontractor used the “Logix” system of Insulated Concrete Forms or ICF‘s.

The owner of this project is one of a growing trend of people who genuinely care about building Green with sustainable products, energy efficient materials and little waste produced.  The Logix system fits into all three of those categories.  The styrofoam blocks lock together with a grid system inside that locks the re-bar in place exactly where designed by our engineers.  Conduits and systems are installed into the forms easily.  And siding and drywall are also attached easily with screws into the built in backing strips.

Now that Gaspar’s is a certified Built Green contractor, we owe it to our clients to give them all the best options.  With our experience and all the great products, taking an older Seattle home to a energy saving machine is within your reach.  Stay tuned for more about this project on our Project Spotlight Page.

CAN DEMOLITION BE GREEN? 8/21/09

This is a tough question.  Thinking along what “Green” building practices mean today, demolishing anything is not really green.  Green is about saving and re-using.  So how do you tear off a back of a home for an addition and call yourself a Green Builder or know your home is Built Green?  It only takes a little planning and a desire to do the best you can.

Gaspar’s recently started a large remodel where tearing off the back of an older home in a tritional neighborhood was needed to begin the process of the restoration and update.  The Project Manager, Gregg Bafundo carefully planned the removal of each component with his Expeditor, Paul Houfek.  With the help of the rest of the Construction Team, they quickly removed all the old vinyl siding, then the old cedar siding under it.  Roofing was next, then framing lumber.  Each of these items was piled into the back yard.  Very little ended up in the dump, and nearly all of it was recycled or stripped for re-use.  We have a nice stack of beams that will be used for headers, some old growth wood for backing and studs, and concrete that will be used for temporary driveways to keep the streets clean.  Copper pipes and wires were separated and recycled too.

Here are some places to know about:

• All wood, including painted, pressure treated and loaded with nails can go to Pacific Topsoils.
• There are a lot of places that take concrete, rubble, and brick.  They crush it up for fill and erosion control.
• Waste Management is a place that you can take a mixed load, basically dump it on their floor and they will sort it out for you!  It costs a little more but if you’re in a pinch, that works well.
• The Seattle Transfer Stations take all kinds of recyclables from appliances, metal, paper, clean wood, to mattresses!
• They also allow home owners to take toxic things to them for no charge.  Clean out all that old paint and stain from your garage that you know you’ll never use and take it to the Transfer Station, but check for hours that that crew is there.

Do any of you have any other “getting rid of the trash” or Green demolition ideas?  Leave your ideas by commenting.

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BEATING THE HEAT 7.29.09

Our temperature just hit an all time high!  Never before has the temperature been recorded this high in Seattle.  And this has got to be one of the driest summers on history here too.  Put that on the back of one of the deepest snowfalls we’ve seen in a long time and the climate change debate gets a whole new look.

No matter what side of that argument you may be on, we all need to think about how to stay healthy during this heat wave.  You won’t be able to escape the heat completely but you can get through it by following these guidelines.

How to prevent heat exhaustion:

• Avoid consuming alcohol and ice water.
• Drink plenty of cool fluids; citrus or fruit juices work best.
• Avoid heavy, fatty-type foods.
• Wear light, loose clothing.
• Avoid fatigue; get plenty of rest.
• Replace lost body salts.
• See a doctor if you are not feeling well.

How to recognize heat exhaustion:

• A person is dazed, staggers or becomes dizzy.
• There is a feeling of nausea or vomiting; the person also can feel chilly.
• Their face looks pale.
• There is a weak pulse and body temperature is below normal.
• A person is lying out unconscious.

What to do:

• Call for emergency medical assistance, 911.
• Keep the victim lying down with their head lower than their feet.
• Loosen the victim’s clothing.
• Keep the victim warm. (Remember, one of the results is the person feels chilly.)
• Give fluids if possible. Avoid ice water and salt solutions are best.

Remember: Both heat exhaustion and sunstroke are serious matters.  In both cases, the body is reacting to a life threatening situation. Do not take chances.  Should you begin to feel ill, take a break and drink some cool (not ice) water or something else other than an alcoholic beverage.  Both injuries frequently cause a lack of consciousness; in our business, that can lead to a serious injury.

This information is from the “Tool Box Talks” and part of the Gaspar’s Accident Prevention Plan.

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COST CUTTING IN LEAN TIMES 7.1.09

Remodeling Magazine recently published an article about cutting costs in lean times.  As you may have figured out, the management and construction teams here at Gaspar’s is doing everything we can to meet our customer’s expectations and tightening budgets, all while achieving our goals for the year.

The points I feel are immediately relevant are:

Reduce trips to the lumberyard. Use a 2-week/l-week/2-day look-ahead process that identifies what’s needed on site. (By the way, this is my pet peeve…we should not have to “run to the lumber yard”.  You’d be amazed at what this will save you in time too!)

Measure twice, cut once. Sounds basic right?  But reducing waste is not only a materials issue.  Train field employees and estimators to be precise in all measurements, whether with as-builts, door and window openings, or trim cuts. The savings in reduced waste alone can account for 1% of total costs or more.

Track expensive items. Develop a purchase order system for special-order materials, including lumber, plumbing and electrical fixtures, and doors and windows.  We are now approving all invoices based on PO’s and Subcontracts.

Negotiate with trade contractors to get the best price in exchange in exchange for continued work and prompt payment. Then develop a PO system for their contract price to control against missed or unauthorized change orders.

A lot of these systems are now in place and more are coming.  We hope to make your jobs extremely organized and efficient, all while producing the highest quality we’ve ever achieved!

Comments welcome from the team!

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THE EMOTIONAL ROLLER COASTER 6.19.09

What is a Construction or “Emotional” Roller Coaster?  You’ve all felt it in just about any process or project that you’ve gone through.  Sometimes the roller coaster comes to the end and you’ve had a blast, other times it crashes and burns!  At Gaspar’s we strive hard to tell you about the ups and downs, when they may happen and then we check in at our weekly meetings to find out where you are on the ride.  When we know how you are feeling we then work hard to make sure we get you to the top of the hill again quickly.

What makes you hit the lows?  Dust, not having a kitchen or a bathroom, strangers in your house everyday for a couple months, a bad day at work, or an unexpected payment due on your kid’s student loan!  All these things can cause stress that translates down to how you feel about the construction on your home that day.  If we know about it, or at least where you are on the up or down slopes, we can do our best to make it less of an intrusion on your life.  So…where are you on a scale of 1-10?

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COMMUNICATIONS 6.12.09

“Contractors never finish on schedule”, “I have no idea how my project could end up costing that much!”, “My project was a nightmare and I’ll never do that again.”  These are all things that Remodelers hear. We have a bad rap to beat because of the poor workmanship, planning and communication by so many people in the business.  The biggest hurdle we have as project managers and superintendents or lead carpenters, is gaining the confidence and trust from our customers.

How can we do this?  It’s all in the communication.  Remodelers often sell how good they are at communicating with the owners but just having meetings or sending emails is not effective communication.  Are you giving your client a chance to express concerns?  Are you addressing those concerns and do you know how they are feeling about the process today, this minute?  And if they’re feeling not so great about it today, are you willing to put your defensiveness aside and really listen? 

Starting each meeting with your home owners, telling them what you hope to get out of this meeting and then listening to what they hope to get out of it will keep you on track.  Then by using a consistent agenda template that they know what topics and what order they’ll be discussed allows them the opportunity to prepare.  I like to start with the business first, budget, change orders and schedule.  Then move on to the more fun stuff about selections and decisions, making sure to ask them plenty of questions all along the way.  Asking questions, rather than going into detailed minutia, shows that you are listening and want to do a good job.  Even at a meeting where you are presenting a lot of information, you should be listening to your client 70% of the time.

Follow up then is probably the most important step to gaining credibility and trust.  Do what you say and do it when you say you would and you’ll see your client relax and start to enjoy the process.  Of course every project will have its emotional highs and lows, but make that part of your meeting agenda and address it head on.  Your customer will not only appreciate it but they’ll really understand that you are their biggest advocate.

It all sounds tough to do, but a little practice, planning and debriefing with your team and you’ll be an expert at it in no time.

What are your success stories and your nightmares about communications with client’s or contractors?  We’d love to hear your stories or ideas.

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